of Fire, Ice and Folklore
Published by SEVENSTORE for 66ºNorth
Author: Millie Throp
Inked into the scrolls of 19th century Nordic manuscripts, a hand-drawn compass spurred navigational might against glacial landscapes and trying climates, harnessing a sequence of circular and forked symbols within its dial-like face. Titled Vegvísir – meaning ‘way-finder’ – the rune framed a promise that “if carried, one will never lose their way in storms or bad weather, even when the way is not known”. So, in a land where the elements seem more present, in which earth, wind and sky yield unpredictable forces, Iceland is an incubator for the mystical.
Host to many a superstitious ritual or folklore tale, in which rock formations take the names of trolls turned to stone, and spirits are said to ponder in the shadows, Iceland’s people are governed by the impulses of Mother Nature and her often welding of all four seasons into one day.
After travelling to Norway to gain a trade in technical tailoring, Hans Kristjánsson put such skills into practise through the founding of his outerwear label, 66°North, distinguishing life and death for fisherman by equipping them with waterproof jackets, before then expanding into knitwear, pragmatic apparel and accessories. Just as the Vegvísir was once placed in the palms of sea captains, the brand’s founding in 1926 stemmed from parallel, protection-driven sorcery. “His mission was to save lives,” highlights CEO Helgi Óskarsson, adding with regret, “there is hardly a soul here that hasn’t lost a father, brother, or grandfather at sea”. Where boat structures of the period were bare and exposed, Kristjánsson’s resistant layers shielded against the severe crashes of icy water, ensuring more crews survived the night and shared the catch in the morning.
As local conditions worsened over time, made more incalculable by climate change, they posed real threat to the workforces of mountaineers and rescue teams, as well as in everyday life. “People started using their work clothes for every day,” explains the CEO. Mirroring the geothermic heat flowing through the country’s volcanic zones, the brand’s traction then grew organically, cementing itself as an essential to existence in The Land of Fire and Ice.
Today, 99% of Icelandic households own at least one item from the label, from everyday apparel to the aids shared with those in frontline occupations. Óskarsson underlines his brand’s commitment to the province as “dressing Icelanders up for dealing with the elements. Whether that’s walking their dog or working outside, we’ve been doing this for almost a century now”.
Despite the weather’s erraticism, such conditions have instilled resourcefulness within the label’s workforce. Stewing up defiant progressions in the technical design field, taking advantage of a testing ground at their back door has meant “you can’t compromise on quality and durability when you start a company to save lives. So, these values became engrained into our DNA,” notes the CEO.
These values, akin to the heritage methods that stay at the crescendo of wearable technology, are cherished by the brand. Óskarsson illustrates that “historically, Icelanders were locked inside during the darkness of winter, doing things with their hands. So, there is a strong tradition of design here”. On reinstating how this plays out today, he adds, “we work with traditional Icelandic wool, but combine it with wind-stopping fabrics because wool can be harsh on skin”.
Having been faced with the mass liquefying of Iceland’s glacial structures more recently, global warming is a reaffirmation of their careful design intentions. Owning their own factories throughout Europe, their methods are localised and responsible, reducing carbon emissions whilst ensuring a constant flow of in-house innovation.
Championing long-lasting design with an inland repair shop, the nearby community can be spotted in 20-year-old jackets, releasing the hold of overconsumption with a circular design system. Reducing their style count by 42% since 2018, the brand believes in strengthening existing products before moving with trends. Preparing each model with the resistance to withstand multiple environments, they wish for consumers to invest in less, more well-rounded items, rather than a hoard of replaceable, single-purpose layers.
With such a trailblazing approach to sustainability, it’s sensical then that their influence would migrate overseas, opening their first non-Icelandic store in 2014, in Copenhagen. And with the fashion industry’s demand for pragmatic, lifestyle-suited silhouettes arguably rising, 66°North presents an experienced option. Just as gods as are said to have once ruled their native heartland, the label’s processes tower head and shoulders above the fad-centred, designing out of necessity, over a chapter of almost 100 years.
A potent force in recontextualising the brand outside of their mother country, Kei Toyoshima granted greater exposure to high fashion with his appointment of Creative Director in 2022. “I see my mission as tuning craftmanship, convenience and comfortability into the philosophy of 66°North as we bring it into the wardrobe, enhancing the performance wear we currently offer, before introducing new items,” he confirms. Having discovered the label on a trip to Reykjavík, Toyoshima’s credentials within the ready-to-wear categories of Louis Vuitton and Bottega Veneta saw him draw likeness between his luxury background and 66°North’s engineered, yet artisanal methods.
On such a relationship, and the likeness between his hand in couture and now performance wear, he highlights that over-preparation ceases to exist in both realms. “If we draw parallels between the craft-centred approach of both, you find commonality between the embroidered dresses of luxury brands and a jacket of ours called the Hornstrandir. It utilises a GORE-TEX Pro construction with breathability and waterproofing, meaning the jacket performs in any conceivable situation; seemingly excessive for my life in Paris, but I use it because it provides me with security. Similarly, an artisanal, embroidered dress might be considered excessive for daily life, but the woman wearing it gains support to shine beautifully”.
Moreover, Toyoshima was also drawn to the closeness kept between the label and their grassroots. “It’s truly synonymous with Iceland and I found beauty in that,” he says. “Creating exceptionally crafted products is a given, but it's more crucial to understand the brand's heritage”. So, while trailing a future within lifestyle conscious collections, legacy, akin to the navigational Vegvísir generations ago, remains at the helm of 66°North’s direction. “It's rare to find a brand so tied to its nationality, so this is our one of the greatest strengths,” he confirms. With the label’s motherland and muse a dropped pin between the battling atmospheres of the North Atlantic Ocean and Greenland Sea, their ambitions never forget aiding its people, whilst making a name for themselves in fashion.
With function holding cardinal importance since its beginnings, the latest 66°North AW23 Collection encapsulates this pledge, extending its appeal on a lifestyle level. As touched on by Toyoshima, the Hornstrandir Hooded GORE-TEX Pro Jacket epitomises a state-of-the-art storm-shielding capability, backed by a three-layer waterproof membrane for braving Arctic blizzards, plus a helmet compatible hood for daily pursuits.
Whilst for the Tvioddi GORE-TEX Down Parka Jacket, a removable, 800-fill duck down lining creates shelter against the threat of a flurry, sourced from their long-term German supplier. Hosting the abilities of a singular, nylon outer shell and a thick down jacket, the item permits three ways of wearing, ensuring lightweight warmth and weatherproofing throughout.
But for the Tindur Technical Shearling Jacket, padding is found to its exterior, appealing to the casual wearer and trained athlete alike. Perfect as a mid-layer in winter or worn alone in summer, its design utilises Polartec Wind Pro Stretch fabric for increased heat and unhindered movement.
Wanderer of lands, pilgrims with a promise; 66°North has carried the weight of its community across unchartered coordinates, instilling greater imagination and purpose within the wider fashion industry. “We have embarked on a growth journey,” reflects Toyoshima, “with a foundation spanning over a century, we are constructing an identity that will continue to be cherished in the future, through creations grounded in our principles”.
Just as the Norse traveller Naddodd is accepted as the first to discover Iceland, drifting to its coast by an air of accident, its first settlers were shocked to experience its landscape coated in vegetation come summer equinox, and its gales retreat as if they never existed. Ever heralding fables and the fortuitous, the locale remains steeped in wonder, asking 66°North to create beyond the curb of prediction, in continuing its aid of lives not held back. Amending others’ hand-drawn compasses and penned desires to conquer, their designs shake hands with the polar winds of chance, gesturing finer respect and understanding.